12.02.2011

Blondes Need Special Attention

(No, this isn’t a joke)

By Contributing Stylist, Colorist, Owner of ROCA Salon & Spa – Rhonda

If you highlight or color your hair blonde, or are even just thinking about becoming chemically dependant with blonde, here are my tips for maintaining the integrity of your hair:

 
  


DON’T overlap lightener (hair bleach)!  This product is designed for maximum lift and is not designed to re-apply to previously lightened hair, once it is the color of palest light blonde.  To re-apply or overlap the product may result in over-processed hair causing dry and brittle strands, or even breakage.  Make sure your stylist pushes the previously-lightened strands out of the foil and only applies the product to the dark re-growth area.  For on-the-scalp applications, thin sections are required and, once again, meticulous attention to avoiding previously lightened hair.  However, it IS safe to overlap blonde hair color up to 2 times, depending on the condition and texture of the hair.

DO confess your hair sins and entire history to your stylist (hint: ½ inch = approx. 1 month of growth, so you may have years to confess to, depending on your hair length).  They can’t always tell by looking what lies underneath the dark color you just applied last week.  Keep in mind that even if you have colored over previously highlighted hair, the light pieces, which have been internally altered) are still underneath (unless they have grown out to the point of being cut off) and will be even more susceptible to damage if re-lightened. 

DON’T even think of drying or styling your hair without a good thermal protectant which can be used both before you dry your hair and again before you apply a flatiron or curling iron.

DO use shampoos and conditioners that contain keratin rather than wheat or soy proteins, as too much of those ingredients will eventually create a reverse effect.  After you have used up the product, switch to a product which is sulfate-free and sodium hydroxide-free, such as all Sojourn cleansing products.  You really can get too much of a good thing.

DON’T comb your hair with a fine tooth comb while wet.  Use a seam-free wide tooth comb to spread conditioner through your hair while in the shower, and to de-tangle once finished.

DO sleep on satin.  Now, I’m not saying you have to go buy red satin sheets!!  You can use a satin pillow case on the pillow you use to sleep on.  Or, keep a large satin scarf in your nightstand and drape it on your pillow to lie down on at night.  You can also easily take the scarf with you when you travel.  Cotton pillowcases wick moisture from your skin and hair, and cause your hair’s cuticle to roughen-up, resulting in disheveled “morning hair”.  Satin will actually protect your hair and keep the cuticle aligned, maintaining a shine to your hair.

DON’T swim without protecting your blonde locks from the chlorine.  The best thing to do is to comb coconut oil through your hair before entering the pool.  It will not only condition your hair, but the oil repels water and will prevent the chlorine from attaching.  Better yet, apply the coconut oil to your hair before you go to the pool or beach and let the sun give you the ultimate hot oil treatment.  Your hair will only look wet, not oily, and you will smell delicious!

DO only allow a professional to create and maintain your blonde hair.  I see so many heads of orange “blonde attempt” hair that it makes me want to go to the store and put my business card that says “If you use this, you will need me, and to re-do what you do is not cheap!” inside every home blonding kit!

DON’T ever allow your hair to grow out beyond 1cm if you are applying any blonding product on your scalp, or 4 weeks MAXIMUM between services.  This also varies if your hair is fine or coarse.  The first 1cm contains soft melanin, or pigment, which is easiest to lighten.  Once the hair grows past that and no longer is influenced by the warmth of the scalp, the melanin hardens and is more difficult to remove.  This is why many times you see people with gold or orange “bands” of color in their hair.  They simply waited too long for their re-touch.

DO use lavender-blue colored shampoo and / or conditioner to help neutralize the unwanted “brassy” tones in your hair.  Not daily, but every second or third shampoo.

DON’T stop following our blog!  More great tips, tricks, and ideas to come!

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